Travelogue

Travelogue

Travelogue

Tracking seasonal migrations

across the Masai Mara in Kenya

Follow the Herd

Tracking seasonal migrations across the Masai Mara in Kenya

Follow the Herd

Tracking seasonal migrations across the Masai Mara in Kenya

Follow the Herd

All words and photos by Travis R. Eby

All words and photos by Travis R. Eby

Nairobi / Masai Mara / Lake Nakuru / Amboseli / Mount Kenya

September 2019

Nairobi / Masai Mara / Lake Nakuru / Amboseli / Mount Kenya

September 2019

Nairobi / Masai Mara / Lake Nakuru / Amboseli / Mount Kenya

September 2019

The first lion encounter did not unfold as I pictured it.

Our first evening in the Masai Mara, our guide George wants to give us a taste of the days to come. We'd just settled into the lodge after a hot, bumpy, 6-hour drive from Nairobi, but we climb into the van and set off.

Against rolling hills and golden hour light, we spot our first zebras, gazelles, giraffes. All breathtaking, but I want lions. When you book a safari, months or years in advance, it's all you can think about: the pride silhouetted against a dramatic African sunset, cubs frolicking, mom and dad taking slow, regal steps toward you and your camera.

The walkie-talkie crackles and pops; George accelerates, and yells at us to hang on.

We approach and learn our first unfortunate truth about safari life: you rarely get animal encounters to yourself. Whatever we're approaching is surrounded by at least ten other vehicles.

George pulls closer and we get a glimpse of the lioness. Our second dose of reality sets in, and it's arguably much funnier: she's rolling around in mild pain under a bush — groaning, burping, farting. Too much for dinner, having gorged on some unfortunate creature in a lesser position on the food chain. While I'll remember this first impression forever, it won't be for its majesty. Nature always keeps it real.

The first lion encounter did not unfold as I pictured it.

Our first evening in the Masai Mara, our guide George wants to give us a taste of the days to come. We'd just settled into the lodge after a hot, bumpy, 6-hour drive from Nairobi, but we climb into the van and set off.

Against rolling hills and golden hour light, we spot our first zebras, gazelles, giraffes. All breathtaking, but I want lions. When you book a safari, months or years in advance, it's all you can think about: the pride silhouetted against a dramatic African sunset, cubs frolicking, mom and dad taking slow, regal steps toward you and your camera.

The walkie-talkie crackles and pops; George accelerates, and yells at us to hang on.

We approach and learn our first unfortunate truth about safari life: you rarely get animal encounters to yourself. Whatever we're approaching is surrounded by at least ten other vehicles.

George pulls closer and we get a glimpse of the lioness. Our second dose of reality sets in, and it's arguably much funnier: she's rolling around in mild pain under a bush — groaning, burping, farting. Too much for dinner, having gorged on some unfortunate creature in a lesser position on the food chain. While I'll remember this first impression forever, it won't be for its majesty. Nature always keeps it real.

The first lion encounter did not unfold as I pictured it.

Our first evening in the Masai Mara, our guide George wants to give us a taste of the days to come. We'd just settled into the lodge after a hot, bumpy, 6-hour drive from Nairobi, but we climb into the van and set off.

Against rolling hills and golden hour light, we spot our first zebras, gazelles, giraffes. All breathtaking, but I want lions. When you book a safari, months or years in advance, it's all you can think about: the pride silhouetted against a dramatic African sunset, cubs frolicking, mom and dad taking slow, regal steps toward you and your camera.

The walkie-talkie crackles and pops; George accelerates, and yells at us to hang on.

We approach and learn our first unfortunate truth about safari life: you rarely get animal encounters to yourself. Whatever we're approaching is surrounded by at least ten other vehicles.

George pulls closer and we get a glimpse of the lioness. Our second dose of reality sets in, and it's arguably much funnier: she's rolling around in mild pain under a bush — groaning, burping, farting. Too much for dinner, having gorged on some unfortunate creature in a lesser position on the food chain. While I'll remember this first impression forever, it won't be for its majesty. Nature always keeps it real.

She's rolling around in mild pain under a bush — groaning, burping, farting

At vero eos et accusamus et iusto odio dignissimos ducimus.

She's rolling around in mild pain under a bush — groaning, burping, farting

At vero eos et accusamus et iusto odio dignissimos ducimus.

She's rolling around in mild pain under a bush — groaning, burping, farting

At vero eos et accusamus et iusto odio dignissimos ducimus.

Full trip report coming soon.

All words and photos by Travis R. Eby

All words and photos by Travis R. Eby